I've always found that using a paper pieced square in a square pattern is the best way to get those sharp, crisp corners that are almost impossible with traditional piecing. If you've ever tried to sew an "Economy Block" (which is just a fancy name for this look) using standard cutting and sewing, you probably know the struggle. Those tiny triangles on the corners love to stretch, and before you know it, your perfectly square center has turned into some sort of weird, distorted diamond. It's frustrating, right? That's exactly why foundation paper piecing (FPP) is such a game-changer for this specific design.
The beauty of the square in a square is its simplicity, but that simplicity hides a lot of potential for error. When you use paper as your foundation, you aren't fighting against the grain of the fabric. You're just following lines on a page. It's almost like paint-by-numbers, but with a sewing machine and your favorite scraps.
Why precision actually matters here
In many quilt blocks, you can fudge a quarter-inch seam here or there and nobody will really notice once the whole thing is quilted and crinkled. But with a square in a square, the points are the whole point. If you cut off the tip of your inner square, the entire block looks "off." It loses that geometric punch.
When you work with a paper pieced square in a square pattern, you're sewing directly on the printed lines. This means your seam allowance is baked into the process. You don't have to worry about your feed dogs eating the corners of your fabric or your ruler slipping while you're trying to trim a fussy-cut center. The paper holds everything stable. It's especially helpful if you're using thinner fabrics or scraps that might be a little bit "stretchy."
Getting your gear ready
Before you jump in, you'll need a few things that make the process a lot less headache-inducing. Obviously, you need your pattern printed out. I usually suggest using a thinner paper—something like newsprint or dedicated foundation paper. Standard printer paper works, but it can be a pain to rip out later, and it can sometimes pull at your stitches if you aren't careful.
You'll also want a shorter stitch length. This is a big one. I usually drop my stitch length down to about 1.5 or 1.8. The reason? Those tiny stitches act like a perforation on the paper. When you're finished, the paper will just snap right off without you having to tug on your beautiful seams.
A few other essentials: * A flat-head pin or two (to hold the fabric in place initially). * A "pave" or an "add-a-quarter" ruler (this makes trimming the seam allowance a breeze). * A small cutting mat right next to your machine. * An iron (and yes, you'll be using it a lot).
Step one: The center square
The first step in any paper pieced square in a square pattern is getting that center fabric positioned correctly. This is the only piece that goes on the "wrong" side of the paper with the pretty side (the right side) of the fabric facing away from the paper.
Since you can't see through the paper easily, a little trick is to hold the paper and fabric up to a window or a light box. You want to make sure your fabric covers the entire center square area plus at least a quarter-inch on all sides. Once it's centered, pin it. You don't want it shifting when you head to the machine.
Adding the first set of corners
Now, here's where the "magic" happens. You'll take your first triangle piece (or just a square of fabric that's large enough to cover the corner) and place it right sides together with your center fabric. You'll be looking at the printed side of the paper, and you'll sew directly on the line between the center square and the first outer triangle.
Don't forget to backstitch a tiny bit at the start and end of the line if your pattern doesn't extend into the seam allowance, though many modern FPP patterns allow you to sew right through the lines. Once you've sewn that first line, you fold the paper back, trim the excess fabric to a quarter-inch, and then flip the fabric over and press it.
I can't stress the pressing part enough. In FPP, your iron is just as important as your needle. If you don't press each flap out flat, the whole block will start to "grow" or warp, and your final square won't be as flat as it should be.
Round two: Completing the look
Repeat that process for all four sides. It feels a little repetitive, but there's something really meditative about it. By the time you finish the fourth corner, you'll have a square that is perfectly encased in another square.
If you're doing a larger version of this pattern, you might have another round of triangles to add. It's the exact same process. Just keep following the numbers on the pattern. One of the best parts about a paper pieced square in a square pattern is that you can use it to "fussy cut" your fabric. If you have a cute little bird or a flower in your fabric print, you can center it perfectly in that middle square, and the FPP method ensures it stays exactly where you put it.
Dealing with the paper (The messy part)
Once your block is finished and trimmed to the outer seam allowance line, it's time for the most satisfying—and messy—part: ripping off the paper. If you used that short stitch length I mentioned, the paper should tear away like a postage stamp.
I usually do this while watching a show because you'll end up with little bits of paper everywhere. Just be careful not to pull too hard on the edges of the block. Even though the seams are secure, the outer edges of the fabric are now "on the bias," meaning they can stretch if you're too aggressive with them.
Why this pattern is a stash-buster
I love the square in a square because it's a fantastic way to use up those odd-shaped scraps. You don't need a lot of fabric for the corners, and the center can be as small or as large as you want. You can go for a high-contrast look with a dark center and light corners, or do something scrappy and colorful.
When you start putting these blocks together, the "points" of the outer squares meet up to create a really cool secondary pattern. If you've used a paper pieced square in a square pattern, those points will line up perfectly every single time. There's no better feeling in quilting than matching up four points and having them actually look like a star when you open the seam.
Final tips for success
If you're new to this, don't get discouraged if you accidentally sew a piece of fabric on backwards. It happens to the best of us. The "FPP brain" takes a minute to click into place because you're working in a mirror image of the final result.
Also, keep an eye on your thread color. Since you're sewing through paper, sometimes the thread can show through a bit if you're using a very dark thread on very light fabric. A neutral grey or tan usually does the trick for almost everything.
The square in a square is a classic for a reason. It's timeless, versatile, and looks way more complicated than it actually is. By using the paper piecing method, you're basically giving yourself an insurance policy for perfection. Give it a shot—your points will thank you!